Knowing who’s the boss

Seton McNulty grew up the youngest of seven brothers and the child of a widowed mother. His father, he said, died when he was only a month old. But he believes that experience, though painful, likely helped build his character, securing a foundation for a deep appreciation of life’s simplest treasures.

It also helped pave his journey, not just in what he chose as his career path, but in how he mapped his course. “Everything I do,” McNulty said, “I do with passion.”

It was a struggle growing up, he said. But he is proud of his beginnings. “It made me who I am.”

McNulty leaves nothing to chance, cuts no corners or skimps on quality. Even when he and his wife, Teresa, decided to open a little steak house on the triangular shaped piece of property between Cortez Blvd. and Wiscon Road, McNulty knew he wouldn’t fail if he focused on excellence.

That’s not to say McNulty didn’t have a few sleepless nights as the process unfolded. “I remember wondering how in heck I was going to make this work,” he said with a look of incredulous appreciation for the powers of commitment.

He didn’t deviate from his grip on quality control, opening the cute little establishment almost three months later than anticipated. “We just weren’t ready to open the doors until everything was perfect,” he said.

McNulty is a baseball trainer by craft, building a foundation of integrity with the groups of youth he mentors. He recognizes the need to put in just a little more at times, to see a little deeper than the surface. That skill serves him well in both roles. “I do that for a living,” he said, referring to his coaching. “But food is my hobby. I have a passion for food.”

As a trainer, McNulty has traveled a lot. And he experienced some of the finest crafted foods in all areas of the country. “I’ve been to California and had the tacos. I lived in Philadelphia. I know a Cheese steak. I used to eat them every day for lunch.”

His menu is comprised of items he tasted on his travels and perfected in his own kitchen. Using the finest quality ingredients and experimenting with various alterations, McNulty created a menu of the best classic tastes from around the country.

A real Philly Cheese Steak begins with the Amoroso roll, he said. His come directly from Philadelphia. “I use the Amoroso roll because that’s what my customers want.” The sandwiches are piled high with quality seasoned, shaved Rib Eye, or tender chunks of chicken breast, mushrooms and peppers or any variation of the customer’s choosing.

The Cheese Steak, he said, is the most popular sandwich ordered from his menu. But Steak Boss also offers a variety of other choices, like Panininis, made from fresh, locally baked Ciabatta bread. He uses a garlic spread, his own creation, from 100 pieces of garlic, roasted in olive oil.

Steak Boss launched their California Tacos; steak, pork, or fish, with a variety of sauces, to an amazing reception. Angus beef is marinated in Carne Asada. The pork is slow cooked for 10 hours, fork tender, and “is as smooth as butter.” The fish tacos, recently added after McNulty went through six different kinds of fish, use a tender white Alaskan fillet.

“I won’t put anything on the menu until it is perfected,” he said.

The tacos are topped with chopped onion, tomatoes, and finely shredded cabbage. The various sauces are prepared fresh daily.

“The steak tacos are really good,” said Neisha Jex. A former Californian, Jex praised the quality of Steak Boss tacos. “They use this green sauce. I’ve never tasted anything so good. They remind me of tacos you’d get in California at a Mexican restaurant.”

Jex was with her husband, Jason, and two children. They had called in their order ahead of time so the wait was minimal, even though each taco was made to order.

McNulty is a perfectionist, recognizing the importance of having his hand on all facets of the business. “I take it personally,” he said, so much so that he delayed the opening a few months because everything had to be just right.

Even now, after serving nearly 100 customers a day for more than five months, McNulty is still tweaking his technique. He gets direct feedback from his customers, many who visit regularly. In fact, McNulty is often seen reaching out the drive though window with some new creation for his customers to try.

He credits his amazing team which consists of his wife, Teresa, and son, Seton. He also employs a few of his past players whose commitment to quality matches his own, including his team leader, Sherry Heymam. McNulty also has two younger children, Jordon, 8, and Makenzie, 11, who can be seen on occasion helping out.

It gets really busy sometimes, McNulty said. But so far they have managed to keep their customers happy.

Like Beth and William Smith who pulled in for a late lunch during a steady rain. “I got the tacos,” Beth said, “one fish and one steak. They were amazing. And they make their own tomatillo sauce here. It is outstanding.”

William, 18, agreed. Only his vote went for the Steak Philly with peppers and mushrooms. “Fantastic,” he said.

Steak Boss has taken off so well, the McNultys are in the planning stages of launching a Steak Boss Mobile Kitchen.

Until then, the only way to experience Steak Boss is to visit them Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Name: Steak Boss

Location: 15270 Cortez Boulevard, Brooksville 34601

Telephone: 352-593-5955

Website: steakboss.net

Kim Dame is a correspondent for Hernando Today. She can be reached at [email protected].

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